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What possible advantage could there be in thinking about snow damage on shrubs when it's not snowing? When anyone who commutes is definitely hoping it doesn't snow!
In the past two years, wet heavy snowfall caused a lot of branch breakage on trees and shrubs. Often, the most damage will happen to plants that have evergreen foliage; either conifers or broadleaf evergreens such as Portugal laurel (Prunus lusitanica.) These plants collect a heavier load over their foliage than do deciduous trees with bare branches.
In my Seattle garden, a sweet gum tree broke off during a wet November snowfall because leaves still on the branches caught snow and snapped off the tree's leader, deforming it completely.
Upright conifers such as yews, cypress, and arborvitae may be pruned lightly to reduce any sprawling branches. Then wrap the plants lightly with twine, winding it up the tree. Tie it loosely. This wrapping process keeps vertical evergreens such as those in hedges from collecting a lot of snow in the centers of the plants and falling open. Often that damage spoils the look of a neat hedge. Remove the wrapping when mild weather arrives.
An evergreen shrub with many horizontal branches, such as a large specimen rhododendron, could benefit from bracing the largest branches from below. A strong 2 x 4, cut to fit snugly between the branch and the ground will help prevent snow load from breaking the branch. Make a notch in the top where the branch will rest and pad the notch with soft cloth or foam to prevent the bark from rubbing off. This activity requires a bit of effort but is worthwhile if there's a valuable evergreen to protect. Such bracing can be seen in Japanese gardens, protecting ancient plants from breakage.
If possible, just after a snow, take a soft broom and and lift gently upward from underneath, shaking the snow off. This keeps the snow load from staying long enough to cause permanent misshapen plants. Pushing down on the branches isn't a good practice because it may exaggerate any potential damage. In the midst of a snow emergency, getting snow off plants may be a minor consideration, but it does help the garden's overall future appearance.
Keep sand available to sprinkle on icy sidewalks. People traditionally use salts (calcium or sodium chloride) and these substances can definitely cause plant problems.
Winter in the maritime Northwest remains unpredictable. Perhaps no one will have to use these snow management tips!
If all this chat about snow depresses you, think of gathering some branches to force for bloom indoors. Most spring flowering shrubs respond well to being pruned off and allowed to bloom in a vase. The term "force" seems unnecessarily harsh. It's really a persuasion; persuading the plants to bloom early. Watching flowers and leaves open soothes spirits worn out by dark days.
Forsythia is one of the traditional, easy plants to bring in. Prunings from fruit trees, particularly from those you already plan to prune, open well. Cherries, quince, and crabapples also respond nicely to being picked and put in water.
Observe the plants before pruning branches. Look for branches with flower buds that are starting to swell. Warmer weather and rain will accelerate this process; freezing temperatures set it back. Prune carefully, just as you would when shaping the tree. Don't leave stubs!
If possible, submerge the entire stem overnight in tepid water (I use laundry tubs for this.) Cut the stem ends on a slant when placing the soaked branches in vases or pots. Most plants don't benefit from having their stems smashed with a hammer. Remove any buds or leaves which will be submerged under water. Make a clean cut to help with water up take.
During this mid-January week, my living room is fragrant with branches of winter honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima) and tall sweet box (Sarcococca ruscifolia.) Spring may be some distance away, but I've brought it a bit closer!
Hortsense: Managing plant problems with Integrated Pest Management
