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But with that caution, it's not really hard to plant seeds in the ground. Just ask a dandelion, thistle, shotweed or chickweed. They've been doing it for millions of years without any human help at all! It's their success at seeding that makes them weeds. But if you want to grow the newest plant that folks stand in line at the rare plant nurseries to buy, don't expect to grow it easily from seed. It wouldn't be rare if it were reproduced like weeds do.
In between these two extremes, however, are a number of wonderful flowering annuals. Good performers from seed include clarkias, bachelor's buttons, calendulas, annual poppies, cosmos, sweet alyssum, nasturtiums and (in really hot spots) zinnias. You may have other favorites, too.
Petunias and lobelias are not on my list of direct-sown seeds- their seeds are tiny and difficult to handle, and they take a lot longer to reach flowering size so using pre-started transplants is the best way to get a good show of color. Also, if it's a tender, tropical plant, it won't get enough heat units here to grow in one season without a head start in the greenhouse.
But seed or transplant, there are some things you can do to maximize the flower display. The first is to do a really thorough job of preparing a seedbed in full sun. This means digging it up as deeply as you can manage and adding soil conditioners like compost, aged manure, or even aged sawdust. Light, fluffy and water-retentive soil is what plants are looking for. A soil test can be helpful in determining if you need to add lime to a sour soil. But don't feel that you need an advanced chemistry degree-the annuals are pretty tolerant of soil pH ranges.
Some books tell you to put granular fertilizer in the soil before planting. I don't do this-I put down fertilizer later, when the plants have some roots to use it. Seedlings are particularly sensitive to root burn and a heavy feeding can stunt or even kill them. Remember, most flowers do best with low-nitrogen levels since nitrogen makes leaves rather than blossoms.
When the soil is well-tilled, raked smooth and looks wonderful, you can take an additional step by allowing weed seeds already in the soil to come up. You'll be eager to plant, but contain yourself for a week or so and you can pull out the weeds that come up in the prepared soil. Vigilance does pay off, with attention to infant weeds getting rid of them before they morph into giant, seed-producing horrors.
When at last you are ready to scatter your seeds, make sure that you don't sow them too thickly or bury them too deep. Baby plants need light and space to stretch and grow. If too many pop up, you must thin the seedlings when they are quite small or none of them will grow well. You can stay in bounds more easily if you outline areas of the seedbed with lime for different kinds of flowers and space the seeds according to the package directions within each area. Label them with so you will know what to look for when they emerge. Many seed packets have a drawing of a seedling to help you distinguish them from weeds, even before they have their second set of leaves, the "true" leaves.
If it's really dry, gently water your seedbed. Spring in the Northwest is usually wet enough to get things growing. But baby plants have tender roots and can't be allowed to dry out. Constant moisture is the goal, not floods followed by droughts.
Seeds are fun for kids, make lots of plants for little money, and directly connect you with Planet Earth. It's a good feeling. So start some colorful flowers this year to tend and enjoy for months to come. You'll like the results
Hortsense: Managing plant problems with Integrated Pest Management
